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Knitting / Apparel

A First Look At Fall 2001

Premiere Vision organizers launch a new fabric show in New York City.

A First Look At Fall 2001 Premiere Vision organizers launch a new fabric show in New York City.Four days after Bastille Day, the French organizers of Premiere Vision took New York by acclaim with a new fabric show. Called European Preview, the show presented 145 textile companies from nine European countries and the beginnings of their lines for the Fall 2001/Winter 2002 season. Three thousand buyers were pre-registered. The response from buyers and sellers alike was enthusiastic.Frank Iovino, president, Miroglio Textiles USA, subsidiary of the Italian vertical, said, Finally, New York has a textile show to be excited about. This is the best show Ive ever seen in this country, which proves it can be done.Jim Gordon, agent for six exhibitors from France and Italy, said, There is a good exchange between mill and buyer. Were writing sample orders and meeting new potential customers. None of our lines is completely ready for Fall, but were getting good feedback about color, pattern and texture. We can play customer reaction back to the mills we represent so they can adjust their lines accordingly.George Hall, from the private label division of AMC, said, After two full days here, I know what colors, patterns and textures I will do for Fall. And I have found a lot of new fabric resources. Banana Republic was looking for laces, and Lands End was shopping woolen lines. Both were pleased with the new offerings.Phyllis Hewett, Sara Campbell, said, I really feel I have a good idea on where to go for Fall. I can see a lot here in a short time. I dont cover the shows in Europe, so European Preview is a tremendous help. Hewett was sampling tweeds and fabrics with surface interest, anything that doesnt look flat, she said.Regino Collazo, creative director, Renar, mentioned the colors being shown. Im interested in unusual combinations of color, such as orange with purple, he said. Domenico Sabella, senior signature designer, Halston, was looking at hand-painted jacquard velvets at Bianchini. Sheila Marks, Bill Blass, noted the quality of the exhibitors and ease of covering lines.Tweeds And Surface Interest In Wool SectorAs in Premiere Vision, fabrics were organized by sector. There were nearly 60 exhibitors in a sector designated wool-type fabrics. Thomas Brochier, who heads up the New York office of the French woolen company de Cathalo, said that 60 percent of the line was complete. Our customers are looking for anything that is soft, has a luxurious look, surface interest and feels comfortable. Ropy tweeds with a soft hand and checks were of interest.This show gives us an early indication as to what will be important, Brochier continued. Our mills can further develop the season based on this information. One new fabric technique, which buyers sampled for outerwear, is a membrane that is adhered to the inside of a fabric. It is lightweight, supple, breathable and water-repellent. Brochier likened it to Gore-Tex®. We can do it on any fabric in our line, he said, showing a jacket in a blend of wool/cashmere/angora.Axel Delacroix, Hauterive (Chantal Fabrics), also mentioned fabrics with a softer touch. Mohair is important in our line for Fall 2001. Big checks and stripes are of interest. Widely spaced patterns are new, he said, showing a pinstripe engineered so trousers can be tailored with just one stripe running down a pant leg front, another down the back.Mohair was strong at Carreman (Gordon Textiles). Suitings and coatings turned up with hairy surfaces, rather than the expected fluffy looks. Stretch was shown in almost everything, for both comfort and performance. In suiting fabrics, stretch is there for comfort and to help a garment maintain a wrinkle-free, well-tailored look, said Olivier Clanet. For sportswear, Clanet showed denim in a blend of wool/polyester/Lycra®.Sueded surfaces and brushed piles turned up in a lot of lines. Carreman showed downy-surfaced engineered stripes in degrade colorings. Metallics were another strong, continuing trend. Carreman has done them with subtle go1d windowpane patterns running through classic Prince of Wales checks. Donegal tweeds were in abundance. Carreman will show an expanded line at Premiere Vision.Stretch wools turned up in several Italian lines. Milior showed wool/Lycra blends in a range of suiting fabrics and in jacquards. It is very popular for menswear, said Miliors U.S. agent, Larry Lazinsky, Gordon Textiles. For early Fall, Milior showed a new fabric called Superbo, which is a very lightweight, cotton/nylon/Lycra blend with a satin touch. Wool/viscose/Lycra was shown in soft, brushed-back checks. Rustic homespuns in wool blends were another highlight.Fred Rothman of the U.S. office of Picchi also mentioned mohair. He showed it in hairy pile fabrics blending mohair with wool and nylon. There were a lot of double-faced fabrics here, including denims reversing to faux leathers and nubby Donegal tweeds reversing to flat flannels embossed to simulate the look of lace. Lightweight, washed wools, animal skin patterns and laser-cut fabrics completed this line.Mohair EmbroideryAt Linea Tessile Italiana (Stacy Horne), mohair blended with alpaca was shown in boucles and brushed fabrics. The fabrics were luxurious, soft and very lightweight. Mohair was also used as an embroidery yarn on net. Colors coordinated with yarn-dyed patterns. Pile surfaces here were velvety; some had an upholstery look, while others were printed, crushed or laser-cut.Ferrarin (Gordon) showed soft-hand, lightweight Shetlands and tweeds. Pebbled textures, open weaves and coordinating patterns were woven in blends of wool/angora/cashmere and wool/viscose/spandex. Black-and-white combos and soft colors were emphasized.In the knitwear section, Nello Gori (Francesca De Vito) had suede-backed faux furs. There were shaggy lamb look-alikes, shearlings, and bi-colored or tonal jacquards. Space-dyed jerseys, thick crochet knits in tonal colors, woven suede shirtings and double-faced washed canvas were other noted fabrics.At Dondi, early indications showed that soft-hand, sueded knits and structured knits will make a comeback. Marioboselli Jersey (Horne) pointed out sueded surfaces, panne velvets, jacquards and prints in large-scale angular patterns.There was a lot of novelty in denim at Bonduel (Nuvotex). It was shown flocked, printed, iridescent and spot-emerized to form a pattern. Following the trend toward sueded surfaces, the company offered double-faced denims reversing to suede.Fake leathers had a burnished, metallic appearance at Griffine (Gordon). Reptile and ostrich skins were depicted flat or in relief to resemble the real thing. Some of the leather look-alikes had a soft, supple hand, while others were shiny or pearlized. A dry-hand, lightweight, coated fabric on a cotton substrate was pointed out as a popular fabric for menswear.Gartex (Gordon) showed a diversified line. A double-weave boucle in a wool/viscose/nylon blend had a random, raised texture. Another in a blend of cotton/wool/nylon was iridescent on one side, reversing to a very soft, brushed surface. Mohair was blended with nylon, acrylic and Lycra. There were bi-stretch wools, mohair jerseys, stretch satins and taffetas, and stretch leather looks. Velvets were sporty or elegant with ribs, permanent pleats, panne and lustered surfaces.Cotton/Lycra Shirtings

Shirting patterns at Emanuel Lang were very small or very large. There were big clan plaids, wide horizontal stripes, houndstooth checks in tonal colors, optical effects and dimensional patterns. Cotton blended with Lycra is starting to sell to the womens shirt market.Printed fabric firms showed new designs on paper. Complete lines will be ready in October, just in time for Premiere Vision. Liberty (Barn Hi11), offered a new baby cord of 100-percent cotton. Other base cloths in this line were hand-washable wool challis and warm-hand cotton twill. Colors included rich berry hues, plum shades and soft cosmetic tones. There were large, angular graphic designs; block images; over-scaled Art Nouveau-inspired patterns; and giant paisleys.At Miroglio, the line was 50 percent complete. Here, orders were still being taken for summer collections. The Fall line included a lot of tweeded looks and sueded fabrics in printed cotton/polyester blends. Polyester/rayon tweeds with colored nubs had a wooly feel. Textured and surface-interest knits included boucles, herringbones and ribs. Some of these have been knitted with cationic dyeable polyester.Tencel® At MiroglioThere is a separate Tencel division at Miroglio. According to Michael Lew, Tencel product manager, prints are driving the market. One new product is indigo-dyed Tencel which has been multi-color over-printed. Lew said that 10 percent of the sample orders taken at the show are from new customers.At Premiere Vision, there are separate sectors for silks, which sell to the couture market, and silky-aspect fabrics, which are generally woven in multi-fiber blends. At European Preview, silks and silk-like fibers were combined in one area. In the blended area, Milag (Nuvotex), specialists in coated fabrics and stretch, showed weft-stretch printed and coated denim. A lot of the patterns resembled animal and reptile skins. Jacquard weaver Dutel (Fitzsimmons Fabrics) was selling logo-patterned stretch jacquards. Olivier Caillet said that a major end-use is pants. For dressier occasions, there were gold paisleys and border patterns.Shot taffeta was available in 100 colors at Reynaud Rexo (Barn Hill). There were crinkled and wrinkled organzas, satins, chiffons and stretch knits. Prints were heat-transferred on polyester or nylon. Early indications showed abstract and animal skin patterns to be the most trend-setting.Dramatic large-scale designs turned up at luxury silk weaver Bucol (Solstiss Inc.). The look was elegant and romantic. Cut velvets, silk jacquards and heavy moire faille were some of the most popular fabrics. An expanded line of mohair laces at Solstiss resembled giant cobwebs or enormous, long-stemmed flowers. There were new beaded laces here. Some resembled fish scales, while others had a stained-glass effect. A new beaded paisley was shown in shades of green.Metallic brocades, warp-printed silk taffeta, hand-painted cut velvets and printed jacquard velvets were all found in the Bianchini line (Fitzsimmons). Patterns ranged from enormous, hand-painted flowers sometimes just one huge, long-stemmed bloom to silver stars on a black ground. There were animal-skin designs and abstracts, some with a lot of shine. Swiss Firm Well Into The 21st CenturyOn the eve of its 175th anniversary, the Swiss firm Weisbrod Zuerrer (Filtex International), celebrated with a thoroughly modern line inspired by nature and having a sporty, elegant look. Most of the line was woven in blends of wool and silk, with a small amount of synthetic thrown in for stability. A techno-wool with iridescent shine had polyester in the warp.At Weisbrod Zuerrer, big, puffy, patterned fabrics were woven with a silk warp and wool/silk weft. The puff was effected through shrinkage. Some fabrics were yarn-dyed and double-faced with a pill texture on one side. Optic matelasses, dry-hand linen/wool blends and textured reverse double cloths were other highlights.Daniel Faure, chairman, Premiere Vision, said, We started to plan this show last March, with a lot of trepidation. Seeing the success of this first show, I know we had the right idea. America is ready for a quality show. We will be back in January to show Spring/Summer 2002. We will only expand this show if the weavers are of the same quality and are committed to selling to the U.S. market on a long-term basis.

September 2000