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Knitting / Apparel

Premiere Vision Predictions

Classics dominate Spring/Summer 2003 fabric trends.

By Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent Premiere Vision Predictions Classic prints, linens, basic plain weaves and twills dominate Spring/Summer 2003 fabric trends. At the most recent Premiere Vision, new technological breakthroughs, organizational changes and marketing innovations were announced along with new directions in color, design and texture. With nearly 33,000 visitors in attendance from all areas of the globe, Premiere Vision offered a platform to reach a vast and focused audience.Although attendance has not reached its pre-Sept. 11 peak, turnout at the show far surpassed last October. Numbers from North America were about 50 percent higher. Daniel Faure, chairman, Premiere Vision, announced that starting in September, the show will accept exhibitors from outside of Western Europe. We will continue to be selective in our selection of new exhibitors. They must comply with our current level of quality and integrity, he explained.Another new area for Premiere Vision will be yarns. Fil Event, organized by Expofil, will show yarns from about 70 spinners for weaving and circular knits. The yarn show will take place in an adjacent hall.

Lace manufactured by Solstiss has been featured on the runway in clothing from top designers, including a dress (right) from Celine. Linen Plus LycraOne major happening was the launch of Irish Linen Plus Lycra®, announced jointly by Irish Linen and DuPont, a development five years in the making. In announcing Linen Plus Lycra, Sir John Holmes, the British ambassador to France, said not only is this a technological breakthrough achieved through the collaboration of DuPont and Northern Irish industry, but it is also an example of cross-border cooperation, and of how Irish industry, both Northern and Southern, can work together.Greg Vas Nunes, vice president, Apparel, DuPont Textiles and Interiors (DTI) Europe, referred to Linen Plus Lycra as an ideal marriage of nature plus technology and comfort plus freedom of movement. There is the innovative aspect and the collaborative effort. Innovation is the key to reviving competitiveness, he said.The first commercial fabrics are woven using corespun Lycra sheathed with linen. Blends are 95-percent linen/5-percent Lycra. Linen/Lycra yarns are being spun by William Ross. Fabrics are available through John England and Spence Bryson, a subsidiary of Ulster Weavers. DTI Focused On GrowthDTI announced three focus areas: broadening the Teflon® brand for fabric protection to encompass other aspects of easy care; expansion of the Aquator® Weather Protection systems; and an Online Fabric Library. Users can log on to the library to access 7,500 fabrics from 400 mills in 40 countries. We can find new fabric resources for designers and manufacturers and put textile companies in touch with potential customers. By the end of the year, we will double the number of fabrics in our library, said Ria Stern, global e-marketing manager. Traditional Fabrics With SophisticationFor Spring/Summer 2003, its back to basics. Plain weaves, dry-hand crepes, canvas, twills, small classic designs, and the look and feel of natural fibers are popular. Texture is in almost every line. There are pliss#44; cloques, seersuckers, pleated surfaces, or slubs and nubs. Denim continues to soar, and there are new invisible finishing treatments that give added performance and protection.At Textil AGB of Barcelona, Spain (Fitzsimmons Fabrics), Antonio Gonzalez Bunuel said quality cottons and linens are sampling well. Stripes and small-patterned voiles woven of long-staple cotton are selling to the shirt trade. For pants, its stretch denim. There are two-way stretch cottons, sheer linens and linen blends.In the linen sector, Northern Irish converter John England is selling butcher linen and a twill. The twill was shown in indigo-denim. Both fabrics are 350 grams per square meter (g/m2), and are woven in blends of 95-percent linen/5-percent Lycra. Other bottomweights include a herringbone originally designed for the home furnishings market, preshrunk boiled linen, wax-finished Berber cloth and double-faced color-reverse linens.Lightweight linens favored by customers are textured sheers. Some have crinkled surfaces, while others have eyelash patterns. Colors are more subdued; blue-grays, spice shades and ruddy tinges are of interest. There are dyed and overprinted fabrics that are washed for color effect, metallic spots, and linens with a luxurious soft touch.Belgian linen specialist Libeco- Lagae is selling washed, color-reverse herringbones and twills that have a jeans look and soft hand. There are classic indigo shades and chalky warm colors. Yarn- and cross-dyed checks and stripes are small and classic. There are 100-percent linens woven from resinated yarns that have a multicolored effect.Linea Tessile Italiana is showing application treatments on linen. Seersuckers, jacquards, embroideries, laser-cut patterns, prints and flocked fabrics are designed to coordinate. There are finishes that give an aged look, silver-coated washed linens and printed fabrics that are over-dyed and washed.Another Italian linen company, Solbiati, has a crushed and washed canvas in a linen/cotton blend. It is called Tartaruga, which means skin of the turtle. There are linens woven with crepe yarns, pebbly textures and pattern/solid reversibles.At Crespi, romantic jacquards look as if they came from the dining room table. Other linens at this Italian weaver have a vintage look, an ultra-soft hand, and crease resistance, as well as being easy-care. There are crepes, gauzes and piqu In a more rustic feeling, there is canvas or denim that is printed and sold to be garment-washed.Italian linen weaver Picchi S.p.A. reports that indigo-dyed, washed linen is its number-one seller. Other popular fabrics include rustic qualities woven in blends with hemp and cotton, brocades in cotton blends, variegated stripes, and textured sheers in cotton with a small amount of elastane.Several wool specialists show linen ranges for spring and summer. Of note are 50/50 blends of cashmere/linen at Scottish weaver Johnstons of Elgin. Fabrics are soft with a cool, dry hand. There are plain-weave 250-g/m2 fabrics, basket weaves and cross-dyed patterns.Robert Noble, also of Scotland, is selling classic patterns coordinating with plains in silk/linen blends, and textured silk/cotton summer boucl Colors are faded and described as being like old roses, sophisticated but not washed out.French wool weaver De Cathalo also has washed linen denims. Other 100-percent linens are woven using twisted yarns. There are small, neat classic patterns, lightweight semi-rustic looks, and puckers woven in blends of linen/cotton/viscose/Lycra.Isoule (Barn Hill), another French wool firm, is showing a line of fabrics called Mestito, or half cast, woven using a cotton warp and linen filling. There are plains with coordinating patterns. Denim in this line is woven of cotton/linen/Lycra. Other linens and blends are transparent and lustrous, and have surface interest. Special open effects are achieved using Chimere, a Paul Bonte yarn that dissolves in water. Noteworthy KnitsItalian knitter Marioboselli (Stacey Horne Textiles) has introduced a new dyeing process that gives fabrics a tie-dyed look without tieing. The marble-patterned design is the same throughout, with a definite repeat. Another new development is a burn-out that is printed on both sides, giving fabrics an animal-pattern effect. There are cotton jacquards and lacy looks in this line, crinkled and uneven surfaces, and a lot of stripes.At Mabu Jersey (Nuvotex), there is double mercerized cotton finished with a new process to give it a soft, matte look. Lace knitted using high-twist blends of cotton/silk is going into T-shirts at this Italian firm.French knitter Billon Frs reports that laces, macramand crochet looks are sampling well. They are knitted in 100-percent cotton and in nylon/Lycra. Some are fringed. Knitted denim in cotton/nylon/Lycra is another favorite. According to Gera Gallico, New York agent, stripes are on almost every order. The British knit company Berne Welbeck uses its Airpak® in molded bra cups. This range of cushion-center fabrics is now selling to sportswear and robe markets. There are printed and embossed surfaces, Teflon finishes and stretch versions. Aphrodite is like Airpak without the cushioning. For fall, the company is developing a range using DTIs Tactel® prisma.Other technical fabrics at Berne Welbeck include moisture-management fabrics knitted of Supplex® and Coolmax® for high-performance active sportswear. There are permanent anti-odor, anti-static, anti-microbial and thermodynamic fabrics in this line.
Fabrics manufactured by British companies for Spring/Summer 2003 take inspiration from plant life, still waters and blue skies. Fabrics are lightweight, soft and fluid. Invisible TechnologySwiss techno fabric specialist Schoeller (Bartfai) introduced a transparent stretch fabric that is waterproof and breathes. It has a three-dimensional look, is a blend of 85-percent nylon/15-percent Lycra, and is especially popular for golf and boating jackets.There are fake leathers with a vintage appearance at Griffine (Gordon Textiles). Another popular look at this French firm is a coated fabric that is printed and stone-washed to resemble denim.The innovative Italian firm Limonta (Strachman Associates) showed an ultra-light wool/nylon/elastane of 186 g/m2, as well as silk taffetas and organzas that are back-coated with polyurethane that cant be seen or felt.Limontas Cotton Wave range features high-performance enzyme-finished poplins and twills. There also is coated canvas with a slick finish, and a linen/cotton blend with a wavy pinstripe pattern. Other fabrics are resin-finished or rubber-backed, or have a vintage or aged look. Prints Make A ComebackLiberty-style prints and their American calico or French Provincial counterparts have made a big comeback. At Liberty (Barn Hill), all-over small florals on traditional Tana lawn were heavily sampled by designers of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear. Other popular floral designs at this British firm are small pointillist styles, long-stem roses, orientals, field flowers, fine-lined florals and large furnishings designs.Josef Otten, Austria, is showing small Liberty-types, tropicals and large-scale florals, animal prints, and stripes and checks. Base cloths include linen, jersey and cotton seersucker.Romantic florals are pretty on crinkle viscose georgette at the Italian firm Miroglio. There are small, tight florals and large roses that look like watercolor paintings. Tropicals, gypsy patchworks, animal skins, African ethnics, 1940s retros and monotones done in red or black and white are other popular designs.Italian silk printer Mantero has small calico designs, large romantic florals, stripes, dots and hearts on silk taffeta, organza and georgette. There are animal-skin patterns shown with flowers and black-and-white musical themes.Devoraces and denims woven in blends of cotton/polyester are new at Ratti. Prints are sporty on bottomweight cotton stretch gabardine or romantic on chiffon, mousseline crepon, crepe jersey, cotton voile or silk pongee. There are mini-calicos, bright outlined flowers, batiks and new paisleys in this Italian line.Bianchini of France (Fitzsimmons Fabrics) has silk/Lycra crinkled sheers. Some also are pleated, while others have floating tapes running through them. Other sheers have raffia floating yarns, Lurex® spots or shimmering, iridescent effects. There are ombrrinted and hand-painted chiffons. Denim In The Silk SectorFrench lace weaver Solstiss has applied plastic sequins resembling denim to lace. Light and movement give the fabric a whimsical effect. At Weisbrod-Zuerrer, denims come in jacquard patterns and plisseaves, and with laser cut-outs. Other fabrics at this Swiss company are subtly patterned tonal silk jacquards, fringed fil coup#44; stretch brocades, stretch voile, cotton/silk gabardine and striped seersucker taffeta.Bucol, the French silk specialist, announced takeover of the old Racine Jersey name noted for quality classic knits. Bucol will retain and update the look.Popular fabrics at Bucol are sculpted stretch lamthat were originally developed for Prada. Patterns include gold and pastel flowers, ombrLurex chiffons and multi-colored silk jacquards.Sequins and feathers are woven into silk tweeds at Malhia, Paris. Along with a couture line, with prices going from $100 to $10,000 per meter, there is a studio line, with fabrics costing upwards of $10.Premiere Vision will be held Sept. 18-21, showing fabrics for Fall/Winter 2003/04. Fil Event will take place at an adjacent location, Sept. 20-21, featuring yarns for Spring/Summer 2004.

May 2002