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From Farm To Fabric: The Many Faces Of Cotton - The 74th Plenary Meeting of the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC)
12/06/2015 - 12/11/2015

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12/07/2015 - 12/11/2015

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Knitting / Apparel

Spring 2010 Begins In New York

Early fabric sellers defy a dull economy.

Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent

A t the opening of recent New York City textile trade shows, exhibitors were apprehensive about the economy. In many cases, their fears were allayed. At Kingpins, the number of exhibitors nearly doubled. Buyer attendance at Première Vision Preview was up 2 percent over a year ago. About 3,000 people came to look at surface design at Direction by Indigo. First-day attendees at Texworld USA included the elite of the fashion industry.

Philippe Pasquet, CEO, Première Vision S.A., noted the euro-to-dollar exchange rate is changing, to the aid of European textile companies. "There is some relief," he said, "and where we can't compete with price, we can compete with product."

Confetti exhibited florals at Première Vision Preview.

Première Vision Preview
At Première Vision Preview, Everest Textile Co. Ltd., Taiwan, showed techno performance fabrics woven with super-bright monofilament yarns or metal for memory. Fabrics were high-temperature-finished. High-density, lightweight fabrics for jackets and pants were woven with subtle dobby patterns in cotton, nylon, polyester and blends. Some had sanded finishes for softness, while others were membrane-coated on the back and had a rubber touch.

Olmetex S.p.A., Italy, has developed ultralight double-faced cotton and linen fabrics woven using a special technique. There also are ultralight and shiny fabrics woven with polyester monofilament yarns, silk/cotton parachute cloths, water-repellent rubber-touch linen and lightweight paper-hand fabrics.

N.I. Teijin Shoji Co. Ltd., Japan, is using  recycled polyesters for a line of casual fabrics. The most sought-after are shiny and have a vintage look.

At Avelana and Roudière, France, finely woven suiting and casualwear fabrics have subtle surface interest and classic patterns. Flat linen and cotton blends contain spandex and have a hint of luster. Cross-dyed twills with metallic shine, chambray, butcher linen and narrow stripes were noted.

BTD Textile, Turkey, showed novelty weaves with new finishes. Smooth, silky-touch Ottoman, lustered twill and jacquards are woven in cotton/polyester/spandex blends. Many are enzyme-finished. There are cotton/linen basket weaves and subtle lustered stripes.

Deveaux, France, showed color wovens, prints and knits. Buyers responded to crinkled surfaces, double-faced fabrics that reverse from large- to small-scale patterns, lightweight tonal shadings, jacquards and dobbies. Popular prints include Middle Eastern-inspired patterns, refined bright paisleys, white-on-white overprinted jacquard looks, mini flowers coordinated with dots and stripes, and ethnics. Vintage looks are printed, then overdyed and crushed for a washout effect.

Soft colors and white are a major focus at Italy-based Linea Tessile Italiana. Offerings include ultralight and soft ribbed cotton voile, yarn-dyed crepe linen, linen gauze, jacquards and rippled surfaces. Some fabrics have dimensional effects, small eyelets and opaque/sheer stripes.

New at Billon Crea'lys, France, is a range of fine-gauge weft knits for lingerie. Activewear and swimwear fabrics have a rich look, smooth hand and subtle luster. Bright zig-zag stripes in nylon/Lycra® have a cotton touch and lacy patterns.

At Bel Maille, France, a pink/ orange/yellow group includes high/ low surfaces, tucks and shiny open knits. Crinkled and crushed knits, piqués, pin dots and shiny/dull combos are in the Marine Blue range. Beige predominates in the Nude story. There are shiny nylon sheers, wavy jacquard stripes and matte/sheer patterns.

T.B.M. Soieries, France, showed innovative fabrics woven on its exclusive Broche machines - jacquard looms that also create novel effects. Opaque/sheer jacquards look as if they have been over-embroidered. Many are overprinted. Other fabrics look as if they were woven with ribbons and crossed with metal yarns. There is an inventory of more than 10,000 yarns and the ability to provide a wide variety of finishes.

Above, top to bottom: Fabrics shown at Première Vision Preview also included selections from J.B. Bernard, T.B.M. Soieries and Billon Crea’lys.

Denim is the focus of Kingpins, cosponsored by Midland, Mich.-based Dow Fiber Solutions' Dow XLA™ and Olah Inc., New York City.

Cone Denim, a Greensboro, N.C.-based International Textile Group Inc. (ITG) company, showed its S Gene premium four-way stretch technology. Also pointed out were light-colored indigos with an ultrasoft hand, powdery pastel shades and optic white. On display were flat cotton twills from Burlington WorldWide, another ITG company, and garments produced in Vietnam as part of its whole-package program.

Tejidos Royo, Spain, showed linen/cotton denim and chambray, Tencel® blends with an ultrasoft hand, bi-stretch woven with XLA, and coated denim. Orta, Turkey, mentioned finishes to give a vintage or a bright, shiny look. Some denims have sparkle. A lot have stretch and bi-stretch with XLA or T-400. 

Kurabo Industries Ltd., Japan, showed its multifaceted product areas. Earthdenim is made by recycling denim production waste. Rainbow includes summer-weight corduroys, voiles and poplins woven with extra-fine long-staple cotton. Stretch denim has T-400 in the weft. Piece dyes are woven with Supima® cotton and organic cotton. Ebriq radiates electronic beams into fibers, resulting in fabrics that generate heat by moisture absorption, and are antibacterial and deodorizing. 

Lubbock, Texas-based CropMark Direct featured FiberMax® upland long-staple cotton - an ultrastrong, durable, soft, sustainably produced cotton developed using Bayer CropScience. Certification can track every bale to the field where it was grown.

Direction By Indigo And Printsource
Beautiful florals, placed T-shirt designs, graphics, ethnics and animal skins continue as popular themes for print design at Direction by Indigo and Printsource.

At Direction, United Kingdom-based Paper & Cloth Ltd.'s sophisticated conversationals looked new, especially voyage-inspired prints such as arks, fish, boats and taxis. At Studio 9 London, Mexican and Aztec themes turned up in sunny colors or muted tonals. UK-based Akay Designs showed modern-feeling, small, precise patterns, including edgy, swirling circles; tree branches; and light, airy pastel stripes.

Delicate pastel shades at Tom Cody Design of New York City and London turned up in watercolor florals and butterfly patterns. At the Collection, prints for eveningwear looked warp-printed.

TextileArchive.com, Durham, N.C., sells more than 15,000 designs including abstracts, conversationals, foulards, geometrics paisleys, and florals via its website.

Printsource exhibitor The Style Council of New York has developed seven themes for Spring/Summer 2010. Abstract Thought prints are splattery, linear or blotchy. Animal Instincts focuses on updated leopards and snakes. Florals turn up in One Love and In Bloom. Round and Round shows circles, spots and dots. Key graphics include geometrics and tattoos. B&W has sophisticated across-the-board black-and-whites.

Reinvented tropicals, paisleys, butterflies and skins were of interest at Susan Benarcik Textile Design, New York City. Creativo, Wantagh, N.Y., showed animals, ethnics and printed lace mixed with flowers.

At Texworld, Buhler Quality Yarns, Jefferson, Ga., focused on new developments, including its TransDRY™ yarn, developed using moisture-transport technology from Cotton Incorporated, Cary, N.C.

Design Knit Inc., Los Angeles, showed fabrics using Austria-based Lenzing AG's new ProModal® fiber.  Fabrics containing ProModal blended with cashmere, wool, bamboo or hemp are soft and ultralight, and have a silky touch.

Pacific Coast Knitting Mills Inc., Huntington Park, Calif., noted that ProModal fiber spins and knits well, has practically no pilling, and has a nice crunchy hand. Burn-outs are specialties. There are lacy, transparent or opaque/sheer combos.

ProModal knitter Saint Co. Ltd, Korea, has a line of ultrafine knitted fabrics for dresses and tops. Its current bestseller is a cotton/Modal jersey.

Jiangsu Golden Morning Knitting Co. Ltd., China, is selling MicroModal® jersey to BCBG. Modal®/silk blends are ultralight, soft and silky.

March/April 2009