More New York Trade Shows
SpinExpo, Direction by Indigo and Printsource presented yarns and surface design for Fall/Winter 2010-11.
Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent
Two other shows, Direction by Indigo and Printsource, focus on surface design. Lisa Mainardi, director, Direction by Indigo, said exhibitors were pleased with that show, which offers customers one-stop shopping for textile design and future direction.
Stoll’s Autumn/Winter 2010-11 pattern collection includes this scarf in gore-look created by float jacquard with holding stitches and stepped wave structures, and sleeveless dress with jersey top in Stoll-knit and wear® technique and skirt with box pleat and cross cable.
New technology, the environment, service, performance and quality were stressed in all sectors. At Angelina® metallic fiber producer Meadowbrook Inventions, Bernardsville, N.J., brilliant metallic and iridescent polyester fibers are made from recycled post-industrial waste. Aluminum fibers composed of plain or pigmented recycled aluminum are available in a variety of staple lengths, are dyeable, and protect against ultraviolet rays and electromagnetic waves. Meadowbrook's 100-percent silver and copper fibers and silver- or copper-coated polyester are reported to have therapeutic, anti-inflammatory, antistatic and antimicrobial properties.
Australian Wool Innovation Ltd. focused on technology and fashion. "The consumer wants luxury and quality," said Jimmy Jackson, general manager, Product Development, "and it has to last." Two new collections are Merino Touch™ and Merino Casual. Some Merino Touch fabrics are made with merino wool yarn that is mercerized to give an exceptionally soft and silky hand, as well as a cashmere feel. The yarns have a subtle sheen and color vibrancy. Many fabrics in the Merino Casual range have unique application treatments. Some have a vintage look, or are permanently crinkled or pleated; others have high/low or opaque/sheer effects from devoré processing.
Germany-based machinery manufacturer H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG installed an electronic flat knitting machine at the show to demonstrate production efficiency and quality of garments produced by this equipment. At its Fashion and Technology Center in New York City's garment district, Stoll provides services such as training and education in knitwear development and production, creative design development, sample garment execution, and sourcing to the apparel industry. There also is a reference library.
Santoni S.p.A., Italy, a producer of electronic knitting machines for seamless apparel, showed a diverse collection of apparel that can be produced on its equipment. The range includes socks, underwear, sweaters, sportswear, beachwear and outerwear. Garments shown go from trendy to basic. One dress that was knitted using different yarns and patterns was produced in 12 minutes.
At Buhler Quality Yarns Corp., Jefferson, Ga., buyers showed interest in slubbed and shiny/dull yarns spun with Supima® cotton or MicroModal®. One bulky Supima yarn spun with 35-percent reduced twist has a shiny surface and silky touch. Moisture management such as transDRY™ technology is a factor. According to David Sasso, vice president, sales, there were more retailers at the show this year wanting to work directly through the supply chain.
S & O, New Hyde Park, N.Y., showed chenille yarns made with recycled polyester and organic cotton. Mohair and alpaca chenille yarns also were shown. Cross-dyes and tweed effects, sparkle yarns and thick-and-thin rayon space-dyed yarns are going into products for the home.
Felise Erdal, president, Yarn Mavens Inc., New York City, said customers will pay higher prices for quality yarns from European and American spinners. Yarn Mavens develops its own yarns and represents several Italian and Spanish companies. New yarns include alpaca/merino wool/nylon brushed and burned yarn, and metallic yarn that looks like chain mail - both from Lanificio dell'Olivo S.p.A., Italy.
Two other Italian spinners at Yarn Mavens, FiliVivi S.r.l. and Filatura Papi Fabio S.p.A., offer stock service and wide color ranges. One popular yarn at FiliVivi is organic Australian merino wool blended with acrylic. Papi Fabio, a spinner for hosiery and knitwear, blends wool with cashmere and other precious fibers, and uses organic and natural vegetable dyes.
Custom Fancy Yarn S.L., Spain, also at Yarn Mavens, sells yarns on cones for flat knitting or in skeins for hand knitting. One spliced yarn has 34 different colors and textures.
Novelty yarns at Huntington Yarn Mill Inc., Philadelphia, are available in quantities as small as 20 pounds. There are twisted yarns, bouclés, metallics and yarns spun with merino wool, rayon or cotton.
Shanghai Tenbro Bamboo Textile Co. Ltd., China, grows bamboo and soy beans and processes and spins them into soft, silky yarns that sell primarily to knitters and weavers that make next-to-skin articles such as socks, lingerie and T-shirts.
New at Hilados Dusol S.A., Spain, is the Envirovert open-end spun yarn collection made from recycled cotton and polyester. Custom colors are created by blending waste materials. Eco-friendly plied yarns at Huafu Top Dyed Melange Yarn Co. Ltd., China, are available in vintage colors, and are selling for circular and sweater knits.
New at Leinefelder, Germany, are blends of cotton with silk, cashmere and baby alpaca. For activewear, there are antibacterial and temperature-control yarns. The company is known for ultrafine yarns. Z. Hinchcliffe, England -- a spinner of cashmere, angora, camel hair, vicuna and lambs-wool -- stocks 120 colors and has no minimums. "We can twist anything and get it out in a day," said com-pany representative Graham Wilby.
Projects and designs based on individual clients' needs are the specialty of Circular Knit Services, Fort Mill, S.C. Novelty sample collections are available, or individual designs can be created exclusively for each client.
Scotland-based husband-and-wife team Sheila-Mary and Hamish Carruthers, Carruthers Associates, have an easy-to-use Web-based fabric design service interactive site called Scotcloth, presenting an archive of more than 70,000 digitally created textile designs that accurately recreate woven fabrics. Selected designs can be rescaled and recolored, then downloaded. All colors are Pantone® referenced.
Karolina York Print Studio’s collection includes stained-glass-inspired fabrics such as the one shown above.
Direction By Indigo And Printsource
At Direction and Printsource, textile designs can be vintage or contemporary. Swirling, melting and moving images; large graphics; and nature-inspired elements are popular themes.
At Direction, Australia-based Karolina York Print Studio showed a stained-glass-inspired group with mosaic and marbled abstract fragments in shades of bottle green and cobalt blue. Melting stripes and washed effects turned up in a color dilution story. Workwear was another theme, with dark colors and blurred designs.
Multipatterned mixes at Keelergordon, England, include damask/ tapestry, geometric/floral and exploding houndstooth designs. Another English studio, Sukhanlee, presented boldly colored connecting triangles, changing circles, scratchy stripes, color-blocked graphics and architectural drawings.
Tom Cody Design Inc., New York City, showed large, hand-painted flowers on tonal grounds; feathery printed burn-outs; flocking; and animal skins. Catherine B. Designs, also of New York City, showed small, ditsy flowers or gigantic florals on printed textures; chenille embroidery; and animal conversationals.
New York City-based digital color service ColorEdge creates design folders that can archive current and past seasons. It will cross-reference designs and collections and shade colors; and connect them directly to Scotic numbers.
The focus is on weaving and warp knitting at EAT GmbH - The Designscope Co., Germany. The company's software creates textures and patterns and connects electronically to the production machinery.
Amanda Kelly Design Studio and Whiston & Wright, both based in England, exhibited at Direction and Printsource. Kelly pointed out skin prints, spots on striped grounds, abstract florals and black-and-white designs. At Whiston & Wright, spotted and splattered patterns, textured stripes that look as if they were in motion, distorted skins and scarf borders were pointed out.
At Printsource, The Style Council of New York showed textural and marbleized designs, loose black-and-white geometrics, and animal/skin graphic mixes. Large-scale prints range from paisleys to menswear designs. Blugirl Art, Springfield, Mass., uses elements from nature for inspiration. Wantagh, N.Y.-based Creativo showed optic geometrics, abstract animals, paisley mixes and nature graphics.