Fall/Winter 2010-11 Preview In New York
Fabric shows and events focused on ecology, technology ... and denim.
Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent
Philippe Pasquet, CEO, Première Vision S.A., said there is an evolution in consumer buying habits because of the economic crisis. "The question is, How long will it last and what will be the behavior of the consumer when it is over? Consumers today want value. They are looking at price and quality. The outcome could be interesting and different. It will have global impact throughout the supply chain," he said.
At a press meeting sponsored by Milan-based trade fair Moda In, trend forecaster Angelo Uslenghi said: "The only thing not to do is stand still. We must move forward and experiment - the consumer wants change."
At a reception hosted by Textiles from Spain - the Spanish Intertextile Council's promotional arm - to showcase 22 spinners and weavers, it was noted that although forecasts point to a better global economy in 2010, consumer perceptions and buying habits in 2010 are unknown.
Texworld USA devoted a special section to denim. At Kingpins, the focus also was denim, along with what goes into it and with it.
“Surprise,” one of four trend themes shown at Texworld USA, featured eye-catching novelty fabrics including prints, checks and fancy tweeds in cool jade tones and blues.
Denim and the environment were strong sellers at Texworld. Co-sponsor Lenzing Fibers, Austria, promoted its eco-friendly Botanic Denim with Tencel®. It has a soft hand, and the manufacturing process is more eco-friendly than other cellulosic processes. ProModal® was another focus, with new blends and products about to be launched. Karsu Tekstil, Turkey, and Samil Spinning, South Korea, are now spinning this fiber.
Mozartex Co. Ltd., China, has sold 100-percent Tencel denim to Marks & Spencer. Formal- and casualwear fabrics blend Tencel with wool, silk, linen and cotton.
Pacific Coast Knitting Mills Inc., Huntington Park, Calif., showed high-end MicroModal®/silk and Modal®/organic cotton novelties. Silky-sheen burnouts were pointed out. All fabrics are US-made; low minimums and fast deliveries are a factor.
Carr Textile Corp., Fenton, Mo., is selling fabrics woven entirely of organic cotton and in blends with recycled polyester. All are dyed with earth-friendly dyestuffs. The line includes canvas, twills, poplins, ducks and denims.
SFT Inc., South Korea, showed recycled polyester printed chiffon. Organic cotton was selling for intimate apparel and infants' wear. JK TEX Co. Ltd., South Korea, has woven slubbed bamboo fabrics with a rustic touch, and eco-friendly piece-dyed, coated fabrics.
Acetate lining fabrics with company logos are a specialty of D. Zinman Textiles Ltd., Canada. Other fabrics include cotton sateens and twills.
Diane von Furstenberg, president, Council of Fashion Designers of America (left), thanked Philippe Pasquet, CEO of Première Vision S.A., for holding Première Vision Preview, saying the event is valuable because it provides early direction to designers and introduces new fabric resources.
Première Vision Preview
Première Vision Preview exhibitors include global producers of elegant silk chiffons and taffetas, cashmere tweeds, ultrafine wool suitings, and high-tech performance fabrics.
Teijin Fibers Ltd., Japan, introduced its Nanofront™ ultralight jacketweight fabric woven of .03-denier polyester and calendered to give it the look of a shiny coated fabric. The hand is luxuriously soft and supple. Other fabrics are woven of ECOCIRCLE® recycled polyester and ECOPET® made from recycled plastic bottles. Patagonia® is a partner.
Taiwan-based Everest Textile Co. Ltd.'s outerwear fabrics, described as combining fashion with function, are selling to Nike and Puma. Stretch fleece-backed taffeta is water- and windproof, breathable and lightweight.
At Olmetex S.p.A., Italy, there are two-tone metallic embossed and crushed taffeta; ultralight wool reversing to quilted taffeta; and soft, light nylon finished to look like wool plaid. S&L Productions, France, showed cotton shirtings using its FreshMax™ moisture-transport, stain-repellent technology - developed through yarn spinning, weaving and fabric finishing; and guaranteed to last through 30 washings.
Prototype development fabrics in the Paris-based CELC Masters of Linen Dream Lab showed the versatility of linen for all seasons. Linen lace reimbroidered with fluffy mohair has a wooly hand. A rippled surface knit in a cashmere/linen blend has a warm, dry touch. There are a gutsy linen/cotton denim, felted linen/wool check, multifiber-blend jacquard bouclé and a velvet stripe.
Two Turkish mills showed traditional wool and wool-blend suitings that combine quality with performance. New at BTD Textile are a cotton/wool/spandex basket weave and a carded wool double cloth that reverses from glen plaid to mini check. Other good samplers include wool dry-hand crepes, stretch wool flannel and pinstripe flannel. Silky-hand suitings at Altinyidiz are woven of wool or blends with cotton or viscose. Some are water- and stain-repellent and wrinkle-resistant.
Thick-and-thin nubby tweeds and fluffy mohair bouclés turned up at Tintore Turull, Spain, and S.A. Jules Tournier, France. Tintore produces new luxury wool items every 20 days. A lot contain Lycra®. Tournier has light, puckered tweeds and luxurious, thick wool/cashmere flannel coatings.
French knitter Bel Maille noted that mohair is doing well. Enormous chevrons in shades of black and grey, and embossed dots were pointed out. Snake-skin patterns on velvet, mini tonal checks, crinkles and glacé printed dots are other favorites.
Early print direction points up Art Deco, optic graphics, blurred flowers and enormous conversationals. At Miroglio Group, Italy, one new idea is a huge patchwork of photo images of New York. Confetti Tekstil Paz A.S., Turkey, has large engineered borders.
Première Vision Preview hostesses wore skirts made of a new crushed metallic fabric from Philea, France. Velvet stretch jacquards, wet-look satins and silky pigment dyes for garment wash are other Philea fabrics.
Velvets at Gierlings Velpor S.A., Portugal, are slubbed or abstract-printed. There are tweeds, lacy looks, pinstripes, mini tonal patterns, lightweight silk velvets and glitter splashes. Popular fake furs resemble snake, ocelot, mini leopard, husky and pony.
T.B.M. Soieries, France, pointed out two themes for fall. Sobriety features elegant, discrete tonal patterns. Energetic looks are rich and ultra-feminine. There are tweeds with subtle sparkle and glittery jacquard taffetas.
This show is about denim, what goes into it and what goes with it. No "just looking" here - it's serious buyers looking for news, new products and new ways with denim.
Jesse Curley, president, Phoenix-based Supima, a first-time exhibitor, noted most of the exhibitors were Supima customers. Never had he seen the Supima® logo in so many places. And what goes with denim? Shirts, and Bloomingdale's is planning a Supima shirt promotion.
Swiss chemical giant Clariant International Ltd. debuted its Advanced Denim to the United States. The process reduces water usage by 40 to 60 percent and is certified to the Global Organic Textile Standard.
Cone Denim and Burlington Worldwide, both Greensboro, N.C.-based International Textile Group businesses, exhibited together. At Cone, selvage denims were of special interest. Others pointed out have an antique look and soft hand, and are lightweight. S GENE stretch denim is especially popular for womenswear. Woven with core-spun yarns in both warp and weft, fabrics don't bag, and they provide extra comfort. Burlington showed cotton twills and canvas with a workwear look in weights ranging from 6 to 12.5 ounces.
Denim North America, Columbus, Ga., also cited lightweight and stretch denim, noting that in New York, it's vintage looks; while in Los Angeles, white is popular. Denimatrix LP, Guatemala, a full-package producer of denim fabrics and jeans, reported skinny jeans are selling for womenswear, while men opt for a loose top and tapered leg. Medium to light shades and metal embellishments are popular.
FesslerUSA, Orwigsburg, Pa., recently went from knitting to full-package, adding a facility with Gerber equipment to cut and sew fashion knitwear. Last year, it opened a completely solar-powered plant - the largest in the Northeast. Fabrics are knitted on Vanguard and Monarch knitting machines.