Spring/Summer '14 Fabrics On View
New developments include technology, ecology and sourcing through the supply chain.
Virginia S. Borland, New York Correspondent
Twice a year, international apparel textile trade shows open in New York City with news of what's
ahead in fashion. According to Jacques Brunel, managing director, Première Vision S.A., Paris, "the
market wants to see something new" — and there was a lot of it at the most recent shows. Première
Vision Preview, Texworld USA and Kingpins all showed innovation from fiber producer through to
fabric knitter and weaver.
Première Vision Preview
Fiber producer Mitsubishi Rayon Co. Ltd., Japan, a first-time exhibitor at Première Vision Preview, introduced Miyabi, a micro acrylic fiber, to the United States. The fiber is ultralight, anti-pilling and warm.
Newlife™, developed by Filatura di Saluzzo, Italy, is polyester made from plastic bottles recycled using a mechanical process. Its production consumes 94-percent less water and 60-percent less energy, and produces 32-percent fewer emissions than virgin polyester production. Available in yarn counts of 25 to 2,000 decitex, Newlife yarns are found in a wide range of fabrics from major Italian producers including E. Boselli & C. S.p.A., Frantissor Créations, Frizza S.p.A., and Tessile Fiorentina Co. S.r.l.
Japanese textile machinery company Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd. presented its all-in-one design workstation that will create fabric patterns, prints and colorways; simulate texture; scan yarns; and drape fabrics onto photos
Several years ago, French fabric exhibitor Philea purchased Velcorex since 1828, an old corduroy company that was about to fold. Now, both lines complement each other. Philea has purchased Tissage des Chaumes, a French tweed producer that sells to Chanel and has been in business since 1908 — because today, "there is a mix of luxury with casual in a creative way." Summer tweeds have been reinterpreted: Some have glitter or are dyed in pastel and bright colors; and there is a lot of white.
One popular fabric at Philea is a viscose satin-backed stretch that is enzyme-washed to give it a casual look. Other fabrics include monotone, drapy romantic jacquards that look used. There are flockings for texture, spots on linen knits, laminated lightweight fabrics and washed-down whitened camouflage prints — and, for early winter 2014, an uncut stretch jacquard corduroy.
Esenteks Tekstil, Turkey, has breathable woven and knitted coated linens and metallic prints that are shiny without feeling coated. Another Turkish company, BTD Tekstil, has summer tweeds with small spots of metallic yarn or random thick-and-thin stripes. Its new pantweight double cloth "fits like a girdle." Deveaux, France, has solid and jacquard slinky matte jerseys, irregular ethnic jacquards and Aztec stripes.
High-tech at Frizza can be dimensional; coated with aluminum; color-washed; crinkled and coated; or double-faced with a shiny, laminated side reversing to a washed, aged surface or high gloss on indigo denim. Olmetex S.p.A., Italy, has ultralight coated cottons and double-sided coated fabrics woven with recycled polyester.
Luxe looks include laces from Solstiss S.A.S., France, that are coated on one or both sides. Coatings are slick and shiny or soft and rubbery. Denis et Fils, France, has stretch lamé in countless colors. Another French firm, Goutarel S.A., has colorful flowers and stripes on silk brocades. Carlo Pozzi & C., Italy, has sheer bubble-textured double cloths, stretch shantung and one-color jacquards.
Printed fabrics at KBC, Germany; Liberty Art Fabrics, United Kingdom; and Sprintex S.A.S., France, range from small ditsy shirtings to large photographic flowers, big paisleys, ethnics, tie-dyes and stained-glass windows.
Cellulosic fiber producer Lenzing AG, Austria, showing at both Texworld and Kingpins, presented a lot pertaining to the 20th anniversary of Tencel®. At Texworld, the company introduced to the United States dope-dyed Lenzing Modal® COLOR, whose production uses 80-percent less energy and 75-percent less water than conventionally dyed Modal.
Buhler Quality Yarns Corp., Jefferson, Ga., spinner of yarns made with Modal and Tencel as well as Supima® cotton, noted that a lot of knitting is returning to the United States, especially to California.
Three U.S. knitters showed novelty. Vernon, Calif.-based Mansfield Textiles Inc.'s knits showed a lot of surface interest including not-so-neon stripes that sometimes are raised or combined with waffles, as well as knitted denim. Laguna Fabrics, Los Angeles, has French terry sweater knits with streaked stripes in cotton/polyester/linen blends, ultralight and soft jersey of Micro Tencel, and a lot of neps and nubs. At Vernon, Calif.-based SAS Textiles, there are denim looks, small bubble checks, French terries, jacquards and a lot of novelty stripes.
Miroglio Group, Italy, was at Première Vision Preview and Texworld. At Texworld, the company showed prints and fabrics that are styled in Italy but made in China. Prints are classic, sweet or sophisticated; and feature dots, paisleys, monotones, tile-type geometrics and stripes.
Textil Santanderina, Spain, exhibiting at Texworld and at Kingpins, showed denim with animal and geometric digital prints, flocking and doublefaces in pale/neon color combos.
Lenzing AG’s Tricia Carey, merchandising manager, and Michael Kininmonth, project manager marketing apparel, Textile Fibers business unit, were on hand at Texworld and Kingpins to show Lenzing’s Tencel® and Modal® offerings.
In the Turkish Pavilion, Parlamis Tekstil sold dress shirtings, some with stretch. The range includes crepes, chiffons, satins, prints and pleats. Kotonteks Tekstil showed stretch jacquards, dobbies, and crinkles. There were animal skins, two-color flowers with dots, and small geometrics.
Hemp Fortex Industries Ltd., China, spins, weaves and knits organic cotton and hemp. Some fabrics are blended with silk or LYCRA®. The line goes from basic poplins to light linen shirtings and knitted stripes.
Labtex Co. Ltd., Taiwan, has knits and wovens that range from activewear, shirting and uniform fabrics to novelty jacquards, crochet laces, French terry spotted with Lurex®, ribs, and stripes. There are a lot of drirelease® fabrics.
At the Apparel Sourcing Pavilion, the National Association for the Sewn Products Industry (SEAMS) and Panjiva specialize in sourcing. SEAMS, a not-for-profit organization based in Columbia, S.C., supports the sewn products supply chain in the United States by providing networking opportunities. If the Parks Department needs new uniforms, SEAMS will alert its 180 members, and those interested may bid. New York City-based Panjiva is a subscription-based global organization.
With a focus on denim, Kingpins is the fastest-growing of the three shows and has the largest number of fiber company exhibitors. This season, Lenzing joined the roster. With denim trends moving to lighter weights, softer hand and stretch, Tencel and Modal are well-established. One of the most interesting aspects of the Lenzing exhibit was to see the same denim fabric available in two different garments — a long gown from Prada, available at Saks Fifth Avenue; and a blouse from H&M.
Cotton Incorporated, Cary, N.C., focused on prints and finishing, showing 3-D digital prints on jeans and T-shirts, delustered prints, washdowns and COOLTRANS™, a cold transfer printing process from Shanghai-based Newtech Textile Development Co. Ltd. that is faster and cheaper than digital printing. One new finishing treatment comprises thermal plastic resin coatings that can be applied by spray or brush and heat pressure.
Invista, Wichita, Kan., developed three fashion trends, showing jeans made with its fibers in each. In Fantasy, there are a lot of shine, prints and four-way stretch. Fabrics from Panther Textiles Holding Co. Ltd., China; Artistic Denim Mills Ltd. (ADM), Pakistan; and Seazon, China, all contained Lycra or Lycra T400®. Reality has authentic looks with performance stretch. One fabric, from ADM, is woven of 65-percent TOUGH MAX™/35-percent Lycra T400. In the Harmony group, there are jacquard denims and knit looks shown in fabrics from Prosperity Textile (HK) Ltd., Hong Kong; Arvind Ltd., India; and Panther Textiles.
Denim producer Tavex Corp., Spain, is selling stretch and lighter weights for men and women. Tavex's newest treatment for denim fabrics is called Waxfit, a resin with pigment that comes from South American palm trees and is soft, breathable and when washed takes on an aged look.
Cone Denim, Greensboro, N.C., showed denim made with recycled denim, and luxury stretch denim with a soft hand and Tencel/ rayon/cotton warp. Also new is back-coated and dyed denim; stripes are up-and-coming.